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Robin Lewallen MD, Shani Francis MD, Brian Fisher MBA, Jeanette Richards PhD, Jim Li MS, Tom Dawson PhD, Katrina Swett MD, Amy McMichael MD
Hair care practices and structural evaluation of scalp and hair shaft parameters in African American and Caucasian women
BACKGROUND
How African American hair fragility relates to hair care practices and biologic differences between races is not well understood. Structural differences in hair in patients of African descent contribute to an inherent dry, curly, frizzy texture that is often difficult to comb and style. Additionally, many African American women utilize styling methods that may be harsh and damaging to the scalp and hair shaft to comply with historical, cultural, and personal standards.
OBJECTIVE
To assess the differences between perceptions of hair health, hair care practices, and several biologic hair parameters between Caucasian and African American women. This study addresses the differences in hair care practices as well as objectively measures differences in hair growth, density, diameter, cycle, and scalp blood flow between Caucasian and African American women.
METHOD
Sixty healthy female subjects between the ages of 21–60 were enrolled in the study with an equal proportion of African American and Caucasian participants. A questionnaire was administered to each subject measuring perceptions of hair health (hair type, hair breakage rates, and desire to change hair) and hair care practices. Biological and structural parameters of hair shaft and scalp, including growth, density, diameter, cycle, breakage, and scalp blood flow were also assessed. Data were analyzed using statistical methods to compare the two groups.
RESULTS
Significant differences between the Caucasian and African American women were observed in the questionnaire and biologic study data. African American women were more likely to report dry hair shafts, hair breakage, and a desire to change their hair. Regarding biological and structural parameters, there were differences in hair growth rate, density, diameter, number of broken hairs, and blood flow.
CONCLUSION
This study demonstrates the vast differences in perceptions of hair health, hair care practices, and biologic hair shaft and scalp parameters between Caucasian and African American women. The differences in hair care practices and hair fiber morphology among African American women may contribute to clinically observed variation in hair fragility and growth. As we learn more about the racial differences in hair structure we can find ways to improve our patient's overall satisfaction with their hair and scalp.
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CONFLICT OF INTEREST STATEMENT
AM is an investigator and consultant for Procter & Gamble. BF, JR, and JL are all employed by Procter & Gamble. TD is employed by the Institute of Medical Biology. This work was sponsored by Procter & Gamble.